CHARLIE PALMER
Charlie creates two very different sauces from very similar ingredients. The first utilizes the drippings of a roasted chicken in a classic roux based sauce. The second adds a rich roasted chicken demi-glace to a reduced chicken stock.
It is important to taste both sauces as you work and adjust the seasoning. Don’t be tempted to add too much seasoning too soon. As the sauces reduce and the flavor concentrates the seasoning will intensify. Herbs are best added at the end, to maintain their fresh appearance, color, and smell.
Basic Roux Thickening Sauce Method for Meats and Poultry
Makes about 1 cup sauce
1 roasted chicken with all of its drippings
1 1/2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1 cup dry white wine
1 1/2 cups rich chicken stock (low sodium if using store bought)
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 1/2 tablespoons minced fresh chives
1 tablespoon minced fresh chervil
2 teaspoons minced fresh tarragon
Remove the chicken from the roasting pan leaving all of the drippings in the pan.
Place the roasting pan on a stove burner over low heat. Add the flour. Using a wooden paddle or spoon, incorporate the flour into the pan drippings. Scrape the flavorful brown bits (called the “fond” in classic cookery) that may have stuck to the bottom of the pan, into the mixture. Adjust the heat, keeping the mixture at an even simmer. Continue stirring until a smooth and thickened base called a “roux” is created, about 2 minutes.
Switch to a whisk. Pour in the white wine and deglaze the pan, by scraping and incorporating all of the bits that may have accumulated on the bottom and up the sides of the pan. Whisk with the sauce base dissolving the fond as you work. Continue to simmer, reducing some of the wine, until the mixture is smooth and thickened, 2 to 3 minutes. Whisk the chicken stock into the base. Simmer, whisking or stirring from time to time, until the consistency of the sauce is thickened and creamy, 10 to 12 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper
Pour the sauce through a fine mesh strainer into a bowl. Just before serving, stir in the herbs. Transfer the sauce to a gravy boat and serve with the chicken.
Reduction Method for Jus
Makes about 1 1/2 cups
It is especially important in this sauce to start with great stock and to avoid the temptation to over season in the beginning, since all will intensify as it is reduced.
The finishing of this sauce happens just before serving. The butter, incorporated with an immersion blender, mellows the flavor and gives the sauce body. Although this sauce will not be thickened, its consistency will be enough to coat what it tops. This is a great sauce spooned over chicken breast preparations like saltimbocca, garlic roast, and grilled.
Demi-glace can be purchased from D’Artagnan, Aromont, and More Than Gourmet.
8 cups rich chicken stock (low sodium if using store bought)
1 tablespoon roasted chicken demi-glace
Kosher salt
3 tablespoons unsalted butter at room temperature
1/3 cup Spanish piquillo peppers cut into 1/4 inch dice
1 1/2 tablespoons chopped fresh sage
Pour the stock into a medium saucepan. Bring to a steady but not rapid boil, adjusting the heat as necessary, and let reduce for about 60 minutes or until it is a little less than a quarter of its original volume, about 1 1/2 cups. Whisk in the demi glace. Season to taste with salt. Reduce the heat to low. With an immersion blender, incorporate the butter into the sauce. Add the pepper and sage. Serve immediately.
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